I’ve been carrying out Collagen Stimulation Therapy (CST) for almost two years and have recently completed a case study on one of my clients. Now I’ve finished my training for CST Body, I felt this was a great time to give you an insight into this amazing treatment.

“Needling is one of the most advanced treatments we can offer in the salon” – Dr Des Fernandes, founder of Environ.

What is Collagen Stimulation Therapy?

Imagine if you could restore skin tightness, soften fine wrinkles and treat scarring, stretch marks and dilated capillaries without damaging the skin or undergoing surgery, aggressive chemical peels or laser resurfacing…………….

Skincare is like everything in life, you get out what you put in. If you’re prepared to invest some time and money into your skin you’ll reap the rewards – and you don’t need to walk around like the Bride of Frankenstein with layers of skin hanging off just to achieve a smooth, youthful skin!

Sex and the City Season 5 - Samantha's Chemical Peel

Collagen Stimulation Therapy, developed by pioneering South African plastic surgeon and skin specialist Dr Des Fernandes in 1997, is “the activation of growth factors (without destroying the integrity of the skin) by pricking skin with needles to induce collagen and elastin in skin”. Don’t worry, it’s not as frightening as it sounds!

People are increasingly looking for alternative ways to rejuvenate ageing skin and as more natural methods like skin needling come to the fore, they’re preferable to going under the knife.

Many aestheticians believe laser resurfacing is the most successful way to renew the skin. Laser, like peeling, destroys the epidermis (the outermost layers of the skin) to induce normal post-traumatic inflammatory reaction. This eventually leads to dense production of collagen with subsequent skin tightening; elastin isn’t produced.

Although the epidermis is only 0.2mm thick, it’s our only protection against the environment. Should we be destroying this protective layer in the pursuit of a smooth, wrinkle-free skin? Through our treatments at Euphoric we strive to preserve, protect and enhance the epidermis (look out for my blog “A fascination with exfoliation!”).

Clinical studies have shown needling can be more effective than treatments like laser resurfacing, dermabrasion and chemical peels to stimulate collagen and elastin production. The main advantage is that needling never destroys the epidermis, making it the ideal skin rejuvenation treatment.  

Treatments can also be repeated to achieve the desired effect, as the epidermis isn’t compromised, and can be carried out on those who’ve had laser resurfacing or have very thin skin.

“Needling employs the body’s natural response that, for the first time ever as far as we know, induces regeneration instead of scar formation and can safely be repeated until one gets the desired results,” Dr Des Fernandes.

Another advantage of needling over treatments like peels and laser resurfacing is the short healing time. It can take 10 days or more for the skin to heal following laser resurfacing and two to six months for the redness to fade completely.

Sun sensitivity is also a major concern following laser treatment. Needling doesn’t result in sun sensitivity (although sunlight should be avoided for 10 days after treatment to prevent exposure to free radicals). It’s also not as expensive as laser resurfacing, which can cost £450-£600 for one small area of the face (eg forehead, cheek or neck) and up to £950 for a full face.

Needling stimulates normal collagen production rather than fibrosis (scar formation) which is often the risk with other skin rejuvenation treatments. This is due to the stimulation of one growth factor in particular which promotes scar-less healing due to the way collagen fibres are laid down.

Results are longer lasting than other treatments available like Botox and fillers, which only give temporary results but cost around the same.

Skin is prepared with maximum levels of Vitamin A and C, and treatments are supported with skin nutrients (look out for my blog on beauty food). This will maximise DNA activity and increase cellular regeneration, maximising results. Needling will also increase penetration of any creams applied to the skin following treatment. The majority of other needling treatments on the market aren’t supported by applying active ingredients afterwards.

My concern is that if products are allowed to penetrate deep into the layers of the skin, surely the practitioner should know exactly what the ingredients are?
Research at the Hanover Medical School by Prof Matthius Aust has demonstrated a 658% increase in thickness of the epidermis after four needling treatments combined with Vitamin A and C skincare, compared with a 205% increase following the same number of treatments with no skincare, showing the importance of vitamin skincare in the rejuvenation process.

Skin must be prepared for three months before CST treatment. The higher the levels of Vitamin A used in home care, the better the results.

Needling can be carried out on both the face and body. Successful results have been achieved on stretch marks, burns scars and loose, lax skin. Needling can also be carried out on new wounds as soon as they’ve closed up, to prevent scarring. I’m sure this will be invaluable and a source of great peace of mind to those who’ve had accidents, been hurt or burnt.

Results can be achieved after just one treatment, although we recommend a course of six to get the best, long-lasting results. It can take several months to see the full results and the best will be seen six months to a year following treatment as the collagen and elastin factories continue to do their job.

Before CST Body Treatment

4 years after 1 CST Body Treatment with daily use of AVST Hydrating Lotion and AVST Body Oil

Of course needling is not for everyone. Although down-time is minimal in comparison to other procedures, and the treatment is less painful, it really is for those who want real effects for their skin. Rolling needles over the skin to cause bleeding is not everyone’s cup of tea! My brother looked at me very strangely when I explained the procedure to him. But when you understand how it actually works and look at the many clinical studies to back it up, it makes perfect sense. My brother is in fact the ideal candidate for needling, having suffered from acne as a child when he was left with some scarring. If only I’d known then what I know now. But have no fear, he’ll be on my couch undergoing a needling treatment soon!  

So to sum up, the main benefits of CST are:

·         the epidermis remains intact

·         longer-lasting effects than other advanced aesthetic procedures

·         lower risks

·         no sun sensitivity

·         minimal down-time

·         scar-less healing

·         treatments can be carried out repeatedly as the epidermis isn’t compromised

·         it’s less expensive than other treatments

Unfortunately I wasn’t able to experience the treatment on my initial course and have been meaning to carry out treatment on myself ever since I trained.

It’s extremely important to me that I experience all the treatments we offer. This time I was able to have a treatment, which was great as I can now advise clients what to expect through first-hand experience.

Follow my 7-day diary on my own needling experience!

Day 1: 30^th July 2012

Having travelled back from London with my arms wrapped in cling film, I changed into a strapless top as soon as I got home! I did get quite a few odd looks on the train.

My skin is already feeling quite tight and still looks red.

The treatment wasn’t actually painful; it’s hard to describe the sensation. I was quite tense as I didn’t know what to expect but it actually got easier the more the therapist did.

I’ve just applied AVST Body Oil before bed and my arms are stinging like mad!! The skin’s already starting to feel dry to touch.

I have to teach an aerobics class in the morning so I’m hoping it’ll feel better by the time I wake up!

Night all x

Day 2: 31^st July 2012

My arms felt a lot better when I woke up this morning.  They were still quite red but weren’t stinging like they were last night.  I think they look worse than they feel! 

They were fine in my morning class but I taught another two classes in the evening so they were slightly sorer than they would have been after a lot of friction caused by all the punching in Body Combat!  I felt I had to explain to my participants why my arms were red in case anyone noticed so I started the class late after a massive discussion with everyone about body needling!!

Day 3: 1^st August 2012

My arms felt so much better today. They are not sore at all now and are much less red.  You can see the needle marks but because the redness has gone it is only noticeable up close.  They are still slightly tender to the touch and the skin feels dry but I have virtually forgotten that I have had anything done. 

I can’t wait to do my next treatment now J

Day 4: 2^nd August 2012

The needle marks are a lot less apparent today.  The skin is very dry and the flaking has started.  They have also started to itch.  It is not constant but at work I could occasionally feel that annoying tingle that made me want to scratch.  I am trying hard not to touch the area and am making sure I use my AVST Body Oil twice a day.